Topstitching or Edge Stitching On Lapels And Pockets

What is it?
Topstitching is a single or multiple set of lines of stitching showcased on the garment right side, either for decorative or functional purposes. It's found on many types of garments, from sporty to formal, tailored to heirloom. The term is often used interchangeably with edge stitching, though generally topstitching refers to a stitching line about 1/4" from the edge or a style line, such as seaming or pockets. Edge stitching, as its name suggests, is done very close to the edge. Occasionally, both types of stitching are used in a single design area. For example, a collar may be both edge stitched and topstitched. Topstitching helps to hold garment layers in place and keep edges flat, or it may be a means of attachment for a design feature, like a pocket or band. On a collar or lapel edge, the added stitching keeps facings rolled under and gives a structured look.

Thread Tricks
Because topstitching is meant to be seen as a design detail, it's often done with a contrast and/or heavy weight of thread for prominence. Many thread companies make a "topstitching weight" in basic colors, and a sometimes in a variety of fibers, including silk.

Topstitching can also be done using regular sewing-weight thread, either in a matching or contrasting color. It's also possible to put two all-purpose threads through a single needle to make a more visible stitching line.

Stitch Smarts
Most topstitching is sewn with a straight stitch, using a slightly longer length than is used for garment construction. When using topstitching thread, it's imperative to lengthen the stitch to create a good quality stitch.
Topstitching can also be done using a triple straight stitch, where the machine actually stitches backward and forward in the same line, creating a more prominent look.
Decorative machine stitches can be used for topstitching if they seem appropriate to the garment styling.

Thinking Straight
Since topstitching is highly visible, it's important that the stitching lines are perfectly straight. Most machines have a presser foot where the distance from the needle to the foot edge is 1/4", which can be used as a guide.
Some machine brands also offer a 1/4" topstitching foot, with a raised edge guide, either fixed or adjustable.

Twice as Nice
Topstitching can also be done using a twin needle to create two rows of straight stitching on the garment right side, spanned by a zigzag on the underside. The two threads may be the same or differing colors. This technique is often used on knits for hemming.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

The Emerging Craze of Custom Cloths

As the world becomes more and more complex, the sane seek more sanity in simplification. It seems pure shopping pleasure just isn’t there anymore. Is it just because we have no time? Are the choices just too overwhelming? Or do we just detest fitting rooms? While many of us can answer “yes” to at least one of these, the question remains, what do we do about it? We have to wear clothes in most societies and most people have a desire to be attractive in public, polished and well groomed in the office, and comfortable enough not to be thinking about their appearance all day. Let’s face it, spending Saturday at the mall begins to lose it’s appeal sometime after our 25th birthday.

Little has the power to make a person feel more uncomfortable than an ill fitting ensemble. No matter how fabulous it looks on the hanger, if it drapes poorly on your body, it is a mistake. But don’t despair! Just because a particular cut fails to flatter your body, it certainly doesn’t mean you have to abandon the idea all together. A custom clothing professional can re-create something more suitable to your frame in keeping with the style you desire.

Here are a few points to take under consideration as you revamp your wardrobe for the coming season

1. When you buy career wear, evening wear, or even a good jean “off the rack”, the chances of a perfect fit are rare. If it flatters your body, you feel good in it and it requires simple alterations, it is money well spent to spring for the little added expense of having a trained professional alter the garment to fit your body.

2. Time is money! How many times have you spent an entire day shopping only to come home empty handed or with disappointments? A better use of your time and hard-earned income is to find a professional in your area to make a custom creation for you. It may seem an impressive expense. Certainly, custom clothing is an investment, but done in the finest fabric you can afford and created especially to fit your body, it is a contribution worth making.


3. Whether engaging a custom clothier or a seamstress to create a garment for you; don’t hesitate to ask for reference or to see some examples of their work. A qualified professional should welcome the request.

4. When investing in custom clothing, be sure to insist on generous seam allowances. None of us like to imagine the possibility of finding the need to accommodate a few extra pounds, but the expense of a slight alteration will be considerably more welcome than the price of remaking the garment.

If you still aren’t convinced custom clothing are for you due to the rapidly changing world of fashion trends, consider basing your wardrobe on well fitting essentials. The simple little black dress, made to perfectly flatter your frame, will rescue you from many last minute emergencies for years to come. A basic, impeccably tailored pencil skirt or pant in your choice of neutral color will serve as a companion to the trendy new tops you find off the rack. A good, classic overcoat will be your best friend for years to come. You don’t have to be wealthy to invest in good custom pieces. Think of them as a business investment since, let’s face it, image counts for a lot. With well fitting garments, you can look great regardless of your shape or size.

The wrong accessories will spoil your perfectly groomed image. Be sure to choose good quality shoes and handbags which reflect your personal good taste and style. A tattered handbag will spoil any outfit, no matter how beautiful your ensemble, it is the first thing people will notice. After seeing an inappropriate bag, their eyes will drop instinctively to your shoes and your custom clothing expense will be an unnoticed effort.

Consider investing in one good custom piece to add to your wardrobe this season. Try it, and I estimate by next season you will be adding as many pieces as you can afford. You will surely wonder how you ever managed without your custom wardrobe!

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com